Hello blog,
It's been almost a whole week without an update, which makes it even harder to try and recap everything that's happened. The Sparknotes/randomly remembered version is as follows:
I survived my first week of classes, which went very well (including my African Dance class, during which I out-danced a local student, who couldn't tell her right from her left. Haha!) I decided to drop my Twi language course (partly because it's just difficult, partly because my heart isn't in it to make the effort, partly because it's eating into my available elective credit, partly because for 2 credits the teacher wanted to meet more than once a week, and partly because I really don't need it in order to get around. It would just be nice to know what people are saying about me when I'm walking by.) I wish I could just automatically know how to speak the language instead of having to actually study it. Oh well.
I had my first phone date with my family, which was great. It was nice to hear their voices (even though my dad bailed on me to go to an airplane club meeting....). I'm really just kidding. I got to talk to him briefly on Eliza's birthday, and I know that he would've been there if he could have been. Next time, Dad! Probably sometime this week. I got to hear about Lizzie's first day of school, and Mom and Liz both got a recap of things that I've posted about and things that I haven't (Mom asked some more stomach questions with which I won't bore/gross you out.) It made me a little sad, in actually talking to them, that I'd have to do that for another 4 months before I could talk to them in person. But again, I'm sure by that point these 4 months will have felt like a minute and a half.
I'm just starting to come off the vacation feeling of everything and settle into the fact that I really do live here now. I know intellectually that I'm going to be here for quite some time, but I have sort of a mask over that as I subconsciously try to compare this experience with anything remotely like it, like visiting Key West or Bermuda. I didn't know what to do with myself a few times this week when I didn't have class, my homework reading wasn't copied and available yet, and I didn't know where exactly to explore. Some of my housemates went to a really great beach about an hour outside of the city. I was invited both times they went, but I had class awkwardly in the middle of the afternoon, during prime beach time. The pictures look beautiful, and I can't wait to go sometime this week.
My schedule changed, so now it is as follows:
Monday: 9am-12pm Globalization and the Modern World
3:30-6:30pm Global Connections: Accra
Tuesday: 5-6:30pm Dance
Wednesday: NOTHING
Thursday: 11am-2pm African Popular Music
5-6:30pm Dance
Friday: NOTHING
I panicked a little on Wednesday because I had mixed up the times of the art class I wanted to take, and now it interferes with my popular music class. I then realized that I had Wednesday off, and I spent 3 hours at the academic center (the duration of the class I thought I was going to) figuring out my schedule not only for this semester, but also for the rest of my college career. I am now only taking 14 credits this semester (there's nothing else I'm interested in that I want to work into my schedule that doesn't clash with my first choice classes), and I needed to make sure that taking 14 credits here wouldn't jeopardize my future semesters. As it works out, I can actually take 14 credits now, and still be better off when I get back to NYC that I'll never have to take more than a normal 16 credit semester on campus. Because I'm taking almost all humanities and no advanced studio/elective credit (except for 2 credits of elective dance), I'm therefore saving my studio/elective credit for when I get back. I could even take one more 14 credit semester if I wanted to, so I'm mentally saving that for spring semester, senior year (when I'll hopefully be working on a final senior project and I won't feel like doing much else). How great is that? Once I deciphered my degree progress and what requirements I still need to fulfill, I then spent the second half of that 3 hours searching out on-campus NYU courses online to see what might potentially be available in the spring (or maybe even for my senior year). I could only base my investigation on what they are offering this fall, so some things might change, but most courses are staples in the NYU curriculum. AND since I got my two sciences out of the way last year, the humanities department is my oyster and I can come back to take classes I'm actually interested in. Hooray! This whole process also got me a little freaked out that I can basically look at the next three semesters and see graduation at the end of them. WEIRD. This year is going to go by in a flash, and then I have only one year left before.....the real world. AH! Enough about that. Back to Africa.
Yesterday I had my most stereotypical African day yet, and I loved every minute of it. We got up early (on the bus at about 6:45am) and drove about an hour and a half east outside of the city to the Volta Region. We visited a village called Torgome, where we learned about the village, saw Kente cloth weaving, pottery, and another group went out on the fishing boats (skinny canoes that they had to sign a waver to go on, as though going in a canoe was the most dangerous part about being in Africa already). We went through a traditional naming ceremony (yes, all 41 of us), where the locals presented us each with a beaded bracelet and a bowl with our full name on it (our American name, plus the tribal name given to us). Mine is Ama Akorfa. The Ama is because I was born on a Saturday, and Akorfa means "comfort." At first, they said "wisdom," and then they corrected themselves....so I guess I just have comfort in the fact that I don't have wisdom. The elderly man who gave me my bowl said (while laughing and smiling) that if he dies, I have to come back and take his grandchildren to America. Haha. I laughed and said thank you for the bowl.
We also dedicated a bunch of school supplies and clothes and things to the village, in addition to a cash donation by NYU, which was sort of the trade for letting us come and visit them. It was strange to look at these groups and groups of children that I had bought notebooks for...and there were just so many of them! I also had to take a mental step back and look at myself in this village, walking hand in hand with these kids past mud huts and chickens and goats. It felt a little like being at Plymouth Plantation or something, except this is their real lives in 2008. It's just how they live. And here we were, a bus-load of American students just traipsing through like Santa Claus. It was a strange experience, but they were all so excited for us to be there that it made it feel less awkward or embarrassing, and more interesting to help them and see how life is there. Many of the adults were interested in showing us around, too. One man, in particular, because sort of an unofficial tour guide. He could speak English pretty well, so he could translate what some of the artisans were saying to explain the Kente weaving and pottery and things. It was surreal. Definitely take a look at my Flickr page, because I got some unbelievable photographs of the day.
Then we said goodbye, ate on the bus, and drove about half an hour to Shai Hills, which is sort of a large African park/nature and wildlife reserve. We took an hour hike through tall grass (on a path), and then up a hill to a cave where the Shai tribe had a small living area and basically a palace for the king. It's all rocks, so not much to look at inside without the king there, himself, but it was fascinating to look at the defense wall they had built, and the vines they would climb up to see out onto the plains. Mom, you would have FREAKED, because if we had gone around a corner of the cave, supposedly there were hundreds of bats. You could hear them from where we were (and smell them, unfortunately), but luckily I didn't have any actual contact. People kept using flash photography, and I had this awful nightmarish image of a huge flock (?) of bats flying out from around the corner and at my face. Luckily, it didn't happen, or else this would be a very different blog right now. We saw antelope from far away on our walk in, and baboons up on a rock outcropping and in some trees near the cave, that was fun as my first real wildlife experience in Africa. Then we hiked the hour back to the bus and drove home. My hiking sandals came in particularly handy, except that they were COVERED in mud (as were my feet) by the time I got back to the bus. And I'm just ignoring the fact that I had walked in a bat cave. You figure it out.
I took the most amazing photographs, which even now don't completely capture how magnificent it was there. It wasn't even heralded as this beautiful reserve, or some sort of national must-see, but it was just so wonderful to get outside of civilization, and the dirt and noise and traffic of Accra, to this serene, natural, AFRICAN place. It felt like the natural set of The Lion King. The grass really looked liked there should be animals (like lions) in it, which I'm obviously glad there weren't. (It would've been a much more stressful hike.) It also felt like the raptor scene in Jurassic Park (also kind of a scary image, but fascinating to be standing in a real version of it...minus the raptors). I was telling Meghan, as we lagged behind the group a little to enjoy what we were walking through, how amazing it is to me that hundreds of years ago, the place where we were standing looked mostly like it does now. Tribes were living in the cave we visited, more animals were grazing in the grass we were looking at (and African people were hunting them!). Looking back on the day, I felt like such an alien. Even in the village, the people there (the children especially) are much less used to seeing white people than I am to seeing black people, just in general. So I walk in, unphased at least by the color of their skin, and meanwhile they're stroking my arm like I'm some creature they don't recognize. What a strange thing.
In the meantime, I miss Ben and Jerry's. Not really a segue there, but a bunch of us are really craving good ice cream (especially Fossil Fuel, my favorite!). Every once in a while we all just moan about it, but other than that, I'm not really craving many American things. Last night, a group of us went out and got pizza and beer and french fries, which was heaven after barely eating anything all day. It upset my stomach this morning (which is nothing new), but it was such a culture shock to go from our house, to a village, to a nature reserve, to driving through Accra, to our house, to a restaurant where I ate all that. Even though there are people that are much less well off than I am (who I see on a day-to-day basis), I'm not going to pretend that I'm poor or try to give all my things away. For example, the people in the village weren't starving. They needed school supplies, which we were able to help supply. They don't have sophisticated health care, they could use more teachers, etc., but we could only give so much, and feeling guilty doesn't help anyone. Some people make fun of our program for not giving us a real African experience, but I feel very lucky (even here IN Ghana) to get to come home to a clean house with water and electricity, even A/C. And I can't take all those kids home with me.
Anyway, I unintentionally got kind of intense with this post, but this blog turns out to be just as much for me as it is for you guys. I've tried to journal for myself, but I've found that more of my real thoughts and reactions come out when I'm writing to other people. So bear with me as I'm settling in and figuring things out. It's going to be a very interesting semester.
Love from Africa, per usual,
Molly
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